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Up To The Skies And Snow Covered Peaks


Traveling in Fan Mountains provoke an unwilling desire to rise above the clouds,  to mount one of  the peaks glittering with snow and ice, the altitude of which are more than five thousand meters. But strict Fan beauties reluctantly allow anyone to visit. Majority of routes to the Fan five-thousand-meters peaks are accessible only for qualified mountaineers. Yet there is possibility to climb on some of them for usual travelers – mountain-lovers and thrill-seekers. One of such peaks is the Zamok peak (5070m), located in Allaudin gorge. Under the direction of skilled guide and after getting necessary instructions, as well as passing advanced preparation, you can ascend on this peak without any special alpinist skills and difficult technical equipment.

 The main part of the route to the peak Zamok run across scree slopes and Poihamber glacier, which is cut by several big diametrical clefts. The steepness of the glacier is 15 – 25 degrees. The crampons are needed to pass over it. The movement on some areas is performed in roped team with alternating or group belay. The glacier ends in cirque with glacial lake, from that point you can enjoy a spectacular view to the Malaya Ganza peak and Guseva-Muhina glacier. Further along the scree slope there is way out to gentle but protracted pre-summit crest and peak itself. The descent is on the same way as ascent.  

 The ascent to the peak starts, as usual, from base camp situated on Mutnoe lakes and does not cause any difficulties. However, in a case of insufficient acclimatization or poor physical training of the participants it is reasonable first to climb up and spend night either on the areas at the east moraine of Fagitor glacier or on the “piedestal” under the west wall of the Zamok peak.

 It is better to plan the ascent on Zamok in the middle or at the end of a multi-day tour (trekking) in Fan mountains. This will allow to “approach” (get ready) for climbing with a good acclimatization and in good physical condition and will require only one day to ascent to the peak.

Tour’s plan by day (itinerary):

Day 1 - Arrival
Welcome to Tajikistan! Your plane arrives in Dushanbe airport, where You will be receipted and transferred from Dushanbe to the camp “Allaudin” (150km), then there is easy passage (40min) along picturesque path till Big Allaudin lake. Night at the campground on the bank of lake.

Day 2
Till lunch time – excursion on Allaudin lake, preparation to leave. After lunch – ascent on Mutnoe lakes (3-4 hours). On the road – a halt on the Piala lake. Campcraft on the site near Mutnoe lakes.

Day 3
Acclimatization-training tour. Ascent on glacier under Energiya pass and conduct training of movement technique on snow/firn and arrangement of safety equipment on snowy-ice relief. If necessary the approach to the upper overnight stay under Zamok peak.

Day 4
The ascent to the Zamok summit. Early wake up. Under the direction of the instructor the group makes an ascent on the peak. Arrival to the top in 12-14 p.m. Descent from the top to the base camp at Mutnoe lakes at 16-18 p.m.

Day 5
Descent to the base camp on the Alaudin lakes. Congratulation to the climbers.  

Day 6
We drive back to Dushanbe.
Accommodation in hotel / apartment.

Day 7 - Departure
Transfer to the airport.
We wish you a pleasant homeflight.




Up To The Skies And Snow Covered Peaks

Basic equipment:

  • Sea bag or backpack for the main luggage 70 litres of capacity
  • Day backpack approx. 30 - 40 litres of capacity
  • Helmet
  • Alpine climbing harness (adjustable)
  • Ankle-high trekking shoes with profile sole and matching climbing irons
  • 2 carabines
  • Telescope ski sticks as a walking help
  • Forehead lamp or flashlight
  • Gas burner
  • Water bottle with 1 litre of capacity
  • Thermos bottle with 1 litre of capacity
  • Sleeping-bag (down or hollow fiber) suitable to - 15 ° C
  • Thermo underwear (2 sets, 1 x long-sleeved , 1 x shortsleeved)
  • 1 pair of gaiters
  • Warm cap
  • Warm gloves (e.g., ski gloves or woollen mittens)
  • 2 long trousers, one of it trekking trousers
  • Pullover (woollen or fiber fur)
  • Suitable hiking clothes (T-shirt, hiking socks)
  • Anorak, wind and water proof (e.g., Goretex)
  • Overtrousers, wind and water proof (e.g., Goretex)
  • Solar protection (headgear, sunglasses, solar cream)
  • Personal medication  (pain means, fever-lowering drugs, diarrhoea medications, means for wound disinfection, plaster, bandages, elastic bandage, small scissors, tweezers, safety pins, medicine against flu, sore throat and coughing, eye drops)
  • Toilet paper

Additional recommended equipment:

  • Rain protective covering for the backpack
  • Comfortable shoes or sandals
  • Photo equipment, films, binoculars
  • Penknife
  • Sweets

Up To The Skies And Snow Covered Peaks

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from 729,00 €

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from 729,00 €

The tour’s cost includes:

  • Transport on the route
  • Meals on the route
  • Equipment (tent + mat)
  • Gas equipment (burner + gas balloons)
  • The guide-interpreter
  • Porters (guide assistants)
  • Hotel in the city
  • Meals in the city (depending on selection of accommodation)
  • Meeting / departure at the airport

The tour’s cost does not include:

  • Flight to/from Tajikistan
  • Visa and visa support
  • Registration
  • Meals in the city (depending on selection of accommodation)
  • Museums and other paid entertainments
  • Cartage to carry cargo (donkeys)

Additional Service (not included in the tour price):

  • Flight tickets
  • Visa

If requested we can offer you an additional programme for free days, or combine different tour offers (not contained in the tour price). Please note your requestions in the comment or in the e-mail.

Up To The Skies And Snow Covered Peaks

Up To The Skies And Snow Covered Peaks